What to see and do in Mahón, Menorca

As Spanish cities go, Mahon is relatively little known to travellers, despite its tumultous history. The port city on Menorca’s southeast coast has been at the centre of centuries of conflict, with everyone from the Moors to the Ottomans and French taking control of its natural harbour, the second largest in the world. But it was the British who left their mark, ruling from the early 18th to the early 19th century, leaving a series of military buildings along the waterfront and on nearby islands. Stretching for eight miles, the harbour remains the heart of the city alongside the Old Town, which gazes down from a rocky outcrop.

The lattice of streets in the Old Town links most of Mahón’s major sites. Housed in a former monastery, the Museu de Menorca offers a good introduction to the island’s history. Admire the contemporary sculptures in the cloister, then walk through eight galleries: each focuses on a different era, from the prehistoric Talaiotic period to the decades of British rule. For a glimpse of life under the Brits, head to Ca n’Oliver, a restored mansion once owned by one of the wealthiest families of the time.

The Old Town’s heart is Plaza de España, home to Mercat sa Plaça, a collection of cafes and food stalls in the cloisters of a former convent. It’s the place to buy the island’s famous Mahón cheese. It has a firm, buttery texture and rich, slightly salty flavour, which intensifies with age. Choose from semi, curado or viejo — seasoned for two, five or 10 months, respectively. While here, try coca bamba (a plain cake often served with hot chocolate) at Sucreria Francesa, a pastry shop and cafe, or tuck into oliaigua (a hearty vegetable soup) and sobrasada (a spicy, spreadable sausage) at El Trueno, a tapas bar.

Also in the Old Town is Pastelería Sandra, which has been selling classic Menorcan pastries and tarts since 1972; try a formatjada (stuffed with pork and sobrasada) or flaó (a circle of pastry around a tangy cheese souffle). Es Llonguet Forn Artesà is another favourite bakery, not least because it doesn’t close from 2-4pm, unlike most businesses in town. For dinner, Ses Forquilles serves classic tapas with a twist, like fricandó (simmered beef) in a bao bun or oysters with wakame and lime. Mercat de Peix has the best pintxos (Basque-style tapas, usually on slices of baguette).

With a long tradition of shoe-making, Menorca was a major 20th-century player in the global shoe industry. Local, high-end brands like Pons Quintana and Pretty Ballerinas, selling everything from flats to heels, are still popular with celebrities like Kate Moss and Kate Middleton. Each has a shop in Mahón, although most visitors opt for the island’s classic avarca sandals — peep-toed, flat slingbacks — from more affordable stores in town. For something different, Posidònia sells earrings, bracelets and pendants inspired by Menorca’s landscapes.

The Old Town represents only half of what Mahón has to offer. From the main plazas, stairs lead down to the harbour. This stretch of waterfront is home to the Xoriguer distillery, which claims to produce the oldest gin in the Mediterranean and offers free tastings and bookable tours. Alternatively, take an hour-long boat ride around the area or visit the Hauser & Wirth gallery on Illa del Rei.

Also along the harbour, a 10-minute drive from Mahon’s centre, is the neighbourhood of Es Castell, originally built as a British military base. The waterfront is lined with fish restaurants and tapas bars and it’s a glorious spot for a sunlit lunch, whether you go for upscale dining at Sa Punta or opt for freshly caught fish and seafood at Trébol.

No visit to a Balearic island is complete without an afternoon at the beach. The unspoilt swathe of sand in the village of Es Grau is just a 10-minute drive from Mahón’s centre. It’s a gorgeously tranquil spot, tucked away in the Parc Natural de s’Albufera des Grau, over 19sq miles of wetlands and olive groves. Stay for sunset drinks at Cafe Bar Es Moll, perched right beside the water.