How to plan the ultimate coastal Greece road trip, from Kalamata to Parga

A slow road trip along mainland Greece’s coastline takes you from one idyllic site to another, from whitewashed villages tucked alongside sea fortresses to quiet beaches just a short drive from ancient temples. There are plenty of opportunities to stop off for a seafood lunch and a quick swim, and chances to end each day with a sundowner overlooking the sea.

Day 1

Start in Kalamata in the southern Peloponnese, where Greece dips its toes into the gulf linking the Ionian and Aegean Seas. The surrounding groves offer some of the country’s tastiest olives. Clamber up to the 13th-century kastro (castle) for a view over the city, then take a coast-skimming drive west past mellow towns and one enticing beach after the next, including crescent-shaped Agia Triada and gold-sand Zaga. Stop at the whitewashed town of Koroni and climb up to its clifftop Venetian castle, before heading to the medieval sea fortress at Methoni. The road then detours inland to the exquisitely preserved Mycenaean palace of Nestor in Pylos, described in Homer’s Odyssey. End your first day with sunset drinks in the hilltop old town of Kyparissia.

Day 2

Rise with the sun for an hour’s drive along the coast, swinging inland to Olympia to arrive at 8am when the site opens. Immerse yourself in the ruins and myths of Olympic legend in peace for a couple of hours, before the crowds descend. As the heat rises, head north along the coast to Skafidia beach, a soft scoop of golden sand, where you can swim and snorkel. At the Mercouri Estate in nearby Korakochori, you can stroll through vineyards and olive groves before sampling their wines and oils. Riveting views of the Ionian Sea and its islands unfold as you edge north past low-key seaside towns, ruined castles and turquoise bays like Kalogria. From here, it’s another pretty drive for an hour to fort-crowned Patras, which traces its history back 3,000 years.

Day 3

Get a crack-of-dawn start for an uplifting drive north, crossing the Charilaos Trikoupis (Rio-Antirrio) Bridge, one of the world’s longest cable-stayed bridges, in the soft morning light. Push on east past the curving, pine-brushed bays, jewel-coloured waters and rippling mountains of the Gulf of Corinth to the pretty seaside town of Galaxidi, where a domed church rises above a huddle of terracotta-roofed houses that cast reflections into the water. Slow your pace for the day by wandering along flower-draped lanes, hanging out in harbour cafes or swimming off nearby pebbly coves. For dinner, try booking a table at O Bebelis, a tiny, old-school taverna with checked tablecloths, a heartfelt welcome and delicious mezze.

Day 4

Retrace your route west to stop at Nafpaktos, gathered around a beautiful fortified harbour and topped by a Venetian castle. Swim from one of the two beaches or grab a coffee before the drive west to Messolonghi. The showstopper here is Messolonghi Lagoon, Greece’s largest wetland, which attracts almost 300 species of bird; including flamingoes and Dalmatian pelicans. A 15-minute hop north brings you to Aitoliko, an alley-woven island town between two lagoons. Dubbed Greece’s ‘little Venice’, it charms with its pelades (wooden stilt houses) and gaitas (flat-bottomed fishing boats). Local specialities include caviar-like avgotaraho, made from grey mullet roe. Try it in a local taverna like family-run Monomatos.

Day 5

The sea unfurls like a sheet, beaded with the Echinades islands, as you drive north on the final day. In a deep bay at the foot of 3,048ft Mount Veloutsa, the fishing town of Astakos makes an alluring stop. From here, continue north for 30 minutes to pretty Mytikas, where 19th-century stone villas command front-row views of Kalamos island. The wild limestone Acarnanian Mountains ramp up the drama as you head to Preveza, a town with Italianate flair and a lively marina. Nearby Nicopolis is one of Greece’s best-preserved Roman cities; take an uncrowded spin of its odeon, stadium, theatre and Byzantine churches. Round off your trip with drinks and a seafood dinner in chilled Parga, a vision in bright pastels, with a Venetian castle posing on the hillside.